Home

Catalog

What's New

Bulletin Board

Links

Comments

Photos

History of Victorian Clothing

Recommended Reading

FAQ's

Workshops

Wholesale

Email Us

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

What are your patterns like?
Are your patterns easy to work with?
You have so many designs, how do I choose?
Do I really need to wear the proper foundation garments?
We are going to be in the extreme heat, what can I eliminate to help keep cool?
I see patterns for upper class, where are the lower class/country outfits?
What fabrics do I use?
What does a Victorian Wedding Gown look like?
I don't want to put credit card info on the net. Can I call, or fax, my info dirrectly to you?
The shopping cart is not working, what should I do?

What are your patterns like?

Our patterns are full size, newly drafted patterns based on antique designs and drafting methods. The seam lines and shapes are all historically accurate. We draft the patterns using the same methods as the tailors of the period, only with modern measurements. Our patterns are not scaled, so each size is true to the measurements as given with each pattern. We have a unique sizing method which allows for greater diversity of form, and should allow different body types to fit themselves well, and easily. The patterns are printed on white bond paper, with black lines. Each pattern packet comes with all the sizes as displayed on the size chart for each pattern. 1/2" seam allowances are given on all patterns pieces.

Are your patterns easy to work with?

We have tried to create a pattern that is both easy to sew and historically correct. We use modern measurements and sewing techniques, combined with historically accurate seam-lines and shapes. The patterns are full size and hand drafted to fit a large array of sizes, from 30"- 50" bust. We give full instructions with illustrations on how to fit and make each garment. However, we do assume the user to have basic sewing knowledge. We keep the patterns simple in design, giving you the basic shapes of the garments and leaving complicated trimmings off. These basic shapes can easily be elaborated upon (or left plain) to create incredibly elegant garments, each one a masterpiece and original to the maker. No "cookie cutter" dresses here.

You have so many designs, how do I choose?

Well, that really is the question, but only you can answer it. If you are joining an exsisting historical group, contact the group's leaders reguarding specific requirements of dress. Some groups are very strict on what they consider appropriate, Other gorups are more lenient and allow you to choose your own style. To narrow down the choices, start with the time period you want to portray. To help you get an idea, visit our History pages. Our patterns are all listed by year, so start in the category for the years you like. Next, when do plan to wear the dress, day, evening, inside, outside, etc. A dress with low cut neckline and a train is hardly suitable for camp wear, but is an excellent choice for evening party wear. Now you just have to go with style, what you would like to wear, and what would good on you. For example, shorter person might like to wear more vertical designs (1880-1890's). Many of our patterns can cross time periods. Early and Late bustle wear can be interchanged, as can the bodices for Natural Form and 1890's. Also any earlier style can be used for a later date.

Do I really need to wear the proper foundation garments?

Yes, and no. No, you never have to wear anything you don't want to wear. After all, this is all just for fun. BUT.... Yes. If you want to look good, be historically correct, and really enjoy your experieince, you need to wear all the proper underwear. The corset is the most important, and most avoided, part of your outfit. The corset smoothes, firms, and lifts you body to a pleasing shape (you don't have to kill yourself to look good.) It will also help with posture, presentation, and keep your dress from shifting. Do not tight lace, and you will be comfortable and ellegant. Next is the chemise and drawers. The chemise is worn under your corset and serves two purposes. One, to keep your corset clean from body oils, and two, to keep the coset from pinching. The drawers, (open crotched) are a necessity for easy use of conveniences while wearing a corset. Hoops and bustles are needed to create the propper outline for your dress. The outline is what defines the dress, and without it, you will not acheive that historical look. Extra petticoats also help hold the ouline, so don't skimp.

We are going to be in the extreme heat, what can I eliminate to help keep cool?

Nothing, keep it all on, but make sure it is natural fibers. (polyesters and rayons really hold in the heat) Belive it or not, I have discovered an interesting phemonemon, the more clothing you wear, the less likely you are to overheat. Think of it this way, your body is 98.6 degrees, and if you are in 110 degree weather, the less the air can get to you the better. Yes, you will be a little bit warm, but it is actually better than wearing a t-shirt and shorts. Insulation against the heat. It also helps keep the sun from hitting you directly. And with all those layers under you clothing, you get a little bit a sweat at the skin and you have a built in air conditioner. Just keep physical excersize to a minimum, drink pleany of fluids, and you will be just fine.

I see patterns for upper class, where are the lower class/country outfits?

In the US, there was a concerted effert by the lower classes to never look like they were lower class. Hence, they worn exaclty the same thing, only using cheeper fabrics and fewer, or no, trimmings. I read one artical printed in "the Queen", an upper class Brittish weekly paper, that in a silver mining town in the Rockys, they "dressed every day better than we (the Brittish upper class) do on sundays." Other aticles comment on the "lack of picturesque peasents" in the US country side, or "if you visit a manor on sundays, you can't tell the ladies from the maids." Fashion magazines were abundant, sewing patterns readily available, so everyone knew what was the correct thing to wear, and they wore it. Charity was a huge part of victorian life, and upper class ladies would donate their out-of-date dresses (6 months old) to the maids, or lower classes. Middle class and lower class ladies remade their dresses every season to conform to the current mode. If you want to look lower class, wear cotton or wool fabrics, solid colors, no trims, or wear a blouse and an apron if your working.

What fabrics do I use?

This is a very hard question. My standard answer is any woven, non-stretchy fabric will work fine. The biggest problem we face in looking for fabric is that most of the types of nicer fabrics that they had (made of silk, fine wools, fine cottons), we do not have (ours are made of poyesters, or rayons) or it is rediculously expensive (still silk, if you can find it.) For those requiring 100% authenticity, you are limited to silk, cotton, linen, and wool. These fabrics are nice, but unless you can afford the silk, they are rather drab, something a Victorian lady tried to avoid. Remember, her wool was incredibly fine. For those with looser regulations, there are a great many dress fabrics of questionable content that are very accurate in the overall look. This category includes brocades, jacards, failles, velvet, satin, and taffeta. And don't forget to use lace, georgette, and gauze. Light weight fabrics can be made heavier with flatlining. Drapy fabrics work better for some shapes, crisp fabrics work well for others. I always prefer crisp, my sister prefers drape. Choose the fabric you like.
A word about satin and velvet. Velvet looks great, but is very difficult to work with, Beginners should stay away from it. Satin is wonderful when draped or rumpled, but it will always look rumpled when you try to make it flat, like on a bodice. This is problem caused by the shine of the fabric, and can not be avoided.

What does a Victorian Wedding Gown look like?

A wedding gown of the Victorian Era was simply a lady's best gown, or just the one she decided to wear for the wedding. It always conformed to the current fashion, and was usually high necked and long sleeved, as most wedding were daytime affairs. Often, the dress would later be converted to a low neckline and short sleeves to act as a party dress for the rest of the year. It could be any color, as white was not standardized until after 1910. Upper Class laidies often had white gowns, as Queen Victoria had been married in white (which was very unusual at that time.)

I don't want to put credit card info on the net. Can I call, my info directly to you?


Yes, we can now handle credit card orders by phone and mail. You are welcome to call us for assistance or or to place an order at (909) 780-3112.

The shopping cart is not working, what should I do?

Sometimes our shopping cart just won't work for some people. It most likely has to do with firewalls or cookies on an individuals computer. If you are one of the unfortunate ones, you can still order via mail or email. Simply list the items you wish to purchase, add up the total and include shipping costs, and a shipping address. Them mail with a check, or email and submit payment by Paypal. For pricing, shipping, and contact information, please visit the ordering page of our website at http://trulyvictorian.netfirms.com/order.html