Pattern LM100 - Victorian Underwear

First, let me say that this pattern is the best corset pattern available today. I love this pattern and can fit any size and shape with relative ease. There is not other corset pattern that offers the fabulous fit and versitility that this one does. I have made over 60 corsets, and can't say enough good things about it.
The following suggestions are little tricks and quips about my experiences with this pattern. I am listing them here to give beginers a guiding hand.

A. Which to choose, the Dore style or the Silverado?

These two styles are both used from 1860 until 1898, so you want to pick the style that is most appropriate to your body type. Basically, the Dore style with the straight seam construction will tend to deaccentuate a full bustline. The Silverado will tend to emphasize the bustline. In my experience, smaller busted figures will greatly improve their figure with the Silverado style. Larger busted figures will generally have a more pleasing appearance with the Dore style. My general rule of thumb: A-cup, B-cup, and C-cup figures should wear the Silverado, while D-cup and larger figures should wear the Dore. The D-cup figure in the Silverado will have the bustline lifted and presented in an unglamorous possition below the chin, which is not the propper look for the Victorian Era.

Another consideration for which corset to style to choose would be your level of sewing skills. The Dore style is much easier to put together, while the Silverado requires a little more effort. A person making a corset for the first time, who does not have access to assistance, may wish to try the Dore first in order to get a feel for what corset making entails. Corset are not difficult to make, but they are intimidating, and require precision sewing.

B. How do I choose which size I need?

This is the hardest part about making a corset, finding the proper size. Once again, for this corset, I have a few basic rules:

1. You need to pick a cup size.

For this pattern, the cup sizes run somewhat large. The choice of cup size may be altered by the next step, but this will give you a place to start.

If you are a very small A-cup, you should choose the A cup pattern.
If you are a moderate A-cup, B-cup, or small C-cup size, you should cut the B cup pattern.
If you are a larger C-cup or D-cup, you should choose the C cup pattern
If you are a DD-cup or DDD-cup, you should choose the D-cup pattern.
I have not yet found a person who needed a larger than D-cup pattern. And I have fit many large figures. You will have to posess an extreme figure to require the DD and DDD cup patterns.

2. Looking at the size chart.

The size chart as given on the envelope is basically for the B cup size patterns only. If in step A above, you chose a different cup size, you will need to make adjustments to the measurements on the charts. The reason for this is that the A cup pattern will remove 2" of fabric from the standard B cup size. The C cup pattern will add 2" of fabric to the standard size. The D cup pattern will add 4" to the standard size. These changes are not reflected on the single size chart provided in this pattern.

Below, I have created the separate size charts needed for each cup size.

A-cup Size Adujusted Chart

Size 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26
Bust28 1/229 1/230 1/23234363840424446
Waist23242526 1/228303234363840
Hip32 1/233 1/234 1/23638404244464850

B-cup Size Adujusted Chart

Size 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26
Bust30 1/231 1/232 1/23436384042444648
Waist23242526 1/228303234363840
Hip32 1/233 1/234 1/23638404244464850

C-cup Size Adujusted Chart

Size 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26
Bust32 1/233 1/234 1/23638404244464850
Waist23242526 1/228303234363840
Hip32 1/233 1/234 1/23638404244464850

D-cup Size Adujusted Chart

Size 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26
Bust34 1/235 1/236 1/23840424446485052
Waist23242526 1/228303234363840
Hip32 1/233 1/234 1/23638404244464850

3. Finding your size on the size chart.

Now it is time to compare your personal body measurments, non-corseted, to the charts to select a size. Looking at the size chart for your cup size, follow the general rules below:

C. Other general fitting notes.