History Natrual Form

By 1877, the bustle had deminished from the wire frames of earlier, to a small pad or nothing at all. The poufs in the skirts dropped to behind the knees. The bodices became long and smooth fitting over the hips, in a style known as the Cuirass

The horizontal look of earlier was giving way to ever more vertical lines. A tall, slim figure was considered fashionable. Skirts that clung to the legs (scandalous) known as tie-back skirts were all the rage. These skirts had tie strings inside to hold the front close to the legs, leaving the back free to flow into a train.

At right -1877 reception dress.

Colors and textures were mixed into complicated creations of skirts, swags, and drapes. The main focus is on the skirts, with simpler trimms on the bodice. Almost every dress is trained, sometimes even walking dresses. Asymetrical skirts are all the rage, and trims and swags are put on high on one side and low on the other.

At left - 1877 evening dress,

The detached overskirt looses favor as most of the complicated drapes are sewn directily to the foundation skirt. Flowers and bows can help decorate and hide where the skirts are tacked together.
Evening bodices are more on-the-shoulder than off.

At right - 1878 day dress,

Every year the skirts become narrower and the bodices longer. By 1879, the fan skirt was the mode. The back the skirt is confined to just about knee height, and then alloew fo flow out in a full, fan-shaped train. Petticoats, and even hoops, were required to hold the "fan" in a good shape.

The bodice shoulder line moves up to natural shoulder line.

At left - 1878 day dress,

Necklines for day wear become more conservative, either high with a collar, or open in a small "V". Most often an open neckline would be filled with a linen collar on a small chimisette.

The bodices see more vertical trimmings, they no longer just go around the neckline, but can extend down the center front to the waist or lower.

By 1880, the skirts are very slim and the train begins to disapear. "Pannier" drapes at the hips are all the rage in France, adding fullnes to the figure.

At right - 1880 dinner dress and ball gown.

At left - 1881 wedding gown.

Below - 1881 evening gowns

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