TV 416 Fit Issues

Find out how to get that dang thing to fit.
MEB
Window Shopper
Posts: 18
Joined: Sat Jan 09, 2010 12:14 pm

TV 416 Fit Issues

Postby MEB » Sat Jun 19, 2010 6:13 pm

Having fit issues with TV 416. According to my measurements and pattern sizing I'm a back size C and front H with a waist measurement of 27 1/2" (bust 39 3/4" and back width 12 5/8"; 17" adj back and 22 3/4" adj front). My issue is the that adjusting the darts (they are each about 1") leaves the bust line puckered oddly. I'm thinking that I might need to cut a smaller front but wanted to get a second opinion.
Front: Image
Back (ignore puckering at the top, I needed to shorten the straps): Image
ImageImageImageImageImageImage
Heather
Site Admin
Posts: 5833
Joined: Tue Jul 13, 2004 6:03 pm
Location: Riverside, CA
Contact:

Re: TV 416 Fit Issues

Postby Heather » Sat Jun 19, 2010 6:42 pm

Even though your math is spot on, for some reason the front is just way to big for you. You can still use this to start, so you don't need to make a smaller size unless you want to.

This first thing I would do would be to let the darts back out again. Then pull the center front in at the bustline until you have a smooth line all around your body at that point. The math says that you should have 3/4" too much fabric on top of 1" ease, but looks to me like you have maybe 3" too much. However much you have pulled in the bust, make the rest of the center front edge exactly the same, from neckline to hip. If you have 2-3" pinned out as the allowance, that is fine, just make it even top to bottom. You can trim this back to the 1" later. Once you have the center front at ythe new place, take in the darts as needed to fit the body below the bustline. Since some of the extra at the waist will be taken out at the center front, the increase in the dart size will be smaller and blend in more. Also , you can take in the center front above the bust as needed to keep the neckline from gaping.

Additional fixes would be the shoulder strap looks a little loose/long. Take in the front shoulder strap until the strap want to sit just at the point of your shoulder, and not slip or sag down. This strap is on the bias, so it will stretch as you play with it. So don't over handle the strap, or put in a row of stay stitching along the neckline to help hold the shape. This issue might fix itself with the center front fix, which would be great.

The hip looks like it could use more room. This horizontal folds right about the waist are most likely caused by not enough flare to the hip. Let out the side seam and maybe the second dart below the waist, so the fabric will lay smooth from waist to hip.
MEB
Window Shopper
Posts: 18
Joined: Sat Jan 09, 2010 12:14 pm

Re: TV 416 Fit Issues

Postby MEB » Sat Jul 10, 2010 2:50 pm

Okay, I sewed down about 2 5/8" extra fabric on each side of the middle (that's from the left edge to the right edge) with 3/4" from the edge to sewing line.
Image
I then put back in the darts (using the E set). and I noticed that is still a large amount of extra fabric.
Image
ImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImage
I obviously still need to fabric out somehow. Should I put in to the darts? Should the darts be shifted?

This is the back, after I tightened up the shoulder straps. Image
I haven't changed the seam allowance for the hips as you suggested yet. Does it still look like I need to?
Heather
Site Admin
Posts: 5833
Joined: Tue Jul 13, 2004 6:03 pm
Location: Riverside, CA
Contact:

Re: TV 416 Fit Issues

Postby Heather » Sat Jul 10, 2010 5:22 pm

Well, that is sorta what I meant. It looks like you took in the bodice a little at the bust along the center front. But then you took it in more below the bust at the center. That is what got you into trouble. Take in the center front edge exactly the same amount, top to bottom. So whatever you took in at the bust line, lower down it has to be the same. You will need to take in extra below the bust, but that extra has to be taken out at the darts. Not the center front line. Does that make sense?

If the darts are too close together, or too close to the center front, then you can move them back if needed. Or just move the second dart back.
MEB
Window Shopper
Posts: 18
Joined: Sat Jan 09, 2010 12:14 pm

Re: TV 416 Fit Issues

Postby MEB » Sat Jul 10, 2010 9:27 pm

Had to run out the door earlier and didn't explain what I was asking very well. I realise the extra is going to be shifted to the darts, I just had it pinned there to show how much extra there was after removing some excess fabric. I still have a lot of extra fabric starting just below the bust. The waist I am going move to the darts but doesn't seem like it will address the excess fabric between just under the bustline to the waist area. I'm worried that it will a bit pouffy in that area unless I extend the darts back up again (basically the from the top of the corset to where my hand is). Image
Heather
Site Admin
Posts: 5833
Joined: Tue Jul 13, 2004 6:03 pm
Location: Riverside, CA
Contact:

Re: TV 416 Fit Issues

Postby Heather » Sat Jul 10, 2010 10:09 pm

Yes, take the darts up to just below the widest part of your bust. Which looks to be just about the top of your corset. The exact shape and size of the darts are dependent on your specific body shape, so you do need to adjust them to suit. In your case, they will be more bullet shaped than cone shaped, as they are drawn in the pattern.

Optimally, your corset should be a little taller, so the darts are usually below the top edge of your corset. But there are no hard and fast rules, and sometimes you have to work with what you have. Everyone is different, and need different solutions. In the end, whatever gets you a smooth fit is perfect.

Or taken at a different angle, it might be that you are tightening the corset too much at the top edge (or it is just too small in the bust) and the corset is pushing you bust up and out over the top. You might want to consider changing the lacings to give you more room for your bust to settle into the corset. It can be helpful to have a separate lace for the top 3-4 holes, so you have keep a looser tension at the bust and still snug up the waist.
MEB
Window Shopper
Posts: 18
Joined: Sat Jan 09, 2010 12:14 pm

Re: TV 416 Fit Issues

Postby MEB » Sun Jul 11, 2010 3:38 pm

I've re sewn the darts to take up the extra fabric and it's much better except for a bit of puckering at the armpit/bustline. Should I just put small sideways darts there to take up the little bit of extra? Also, do you havea recommendation for a which size front I should cut next time I make this pattern?
ImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImage
Heather
Site Admin
Posts: 5833
Joined: Tue Jul 13, 2004 6:03 pm
Location: Riverside, CA
Contact:

Re: TV 416 Fit Issues

Postby Heather » Sun Jul 11, 2010 7:47 pm

That looks so much better!! Nice job.

You can shift that dart at the armpit to the second side dart. It is not too hard to do. Here is an illustration of how to do it.

Image

As for what size to go with next time? I would remeasure yourself in your corset and check your overall bust measure. Then go from there. I can only assume that your bust measure was actually smaller than what you measured.
MEB
Window Shopper
Posts: 18
Joined: Sat Jan 09, 2010 12:14 pm

Re: TV 416 Fit Issues

Postby MEB » Mon Jul 12, 2010 1:32 pm

Am I doing the shifting on the pattern or the garment?

If it's the garment, are these the steps? 1. Mark out the extra at the armpit. 2. Cut a line from the point of the extra armpit and the second side dart. 3. move so the edges of the extra armpit are together then resew the second side dart. 4. recut the front armhole so it fits.

I really appreciate your help on this.
Heather
Site Admin
Posts: 5833
Joined: Tue Jul 13, 2004 6:03 pm
Location: Riverside, CA
Contact:

Re: TV 416 Fit Issues

Postby Heather » Mon Jul 12, 2010 1:45 pm

You want to do this on the pattern. The only fix on the garment would be to leave the small dart to the armpit. To move it, you need to change the pattern first, so the garment will not have the armpit dart, and instead have a double big bust dart.

Return to “Does this fit right?”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests